UV light for gel nail polish — is it safe?
We talked about the possible link between UV rays at nail salons and skin cancer in 2011.
But more recent research has raised the alarm again, so we wanted to let you know.
Find out what potential dangers are associated with these UV-emitting nail polish dryers and what you can do about it.
UV Light for Gel Nail Polish: What the Science Says
Scientists recently published a study in Nature communications which caught the attention of the beauty industry.
We have long known that ultraviolet (UV) rays can damage the skin, potentially increasing the risk of skin cancer. The main source of UV rays is the sun, so it’s important to protect your skin from long-term exposure. But can you also be exposed when you use UV dryers at the nail salon to dry your nails?
The UV radiation in these devices is a similar type of UV light found in sunlight and tanning beds. This means that when you place your fingernails under them, you could be increasing your exposure to potentially cancer-causing rays.
UV Light for Gel Nail Polish: New Research
A small study raised concern about UV lamps used in nail salons 2009. It was based on two middle-aged healthy women with no personal or family history of skin cancer who developed cancer in their hands. Both women reported previous nail UV exposure.
“It appears that nail UV exposure is a risk factor for the development of skin cancer,” the scientists wrote, but noted that more research is needed.
For this newest study, scientists found that just one 20-minute session using a UV nail dryer resulted in between 20 and 30 percent skin cell death. Three consecutive 20-minute exposures caused between 65 and 70 percent of the exposed skin cells to die.
UV exposure also caused mitochondrial and DNA damage in the remaining cells and led to mutations with patterns that can be seen in skin cancer in humans.
Ludmil Alexandrov, corresponding author of the study, noted that these devices are marketed as safe. However, “to our knowledge,” he said, “no one has really studied these devices and how they affect human cells at the molecular and cellular level until now.”
Should we be worried?
Looking at the data from the study, Alexandrov noted three relevant results:
- The DNA was damaged
- Some of the DNA damage went unrepaired over time and led to mutations
- The exposure appeared to cause cellular dysfunction, which could lead to additional mutations
Furthermore, when skin cancer patients with the mutations seen in these studies were compared, the patterns of mutations were the same.
So, can UV curing lights for gel manicures cause cancer? The researchers cautioned that while the results raise alarms—especially when these devices are used repeatedly over years—a longer-term study involving many more people would be needed before it can be said with certainty that these devices lead to an increased risk of skin cancer.
Scientists caution, however, that the study clearly showed that the use of these UV devices was harmful to human cells.
What we do know that exposure to UVA light can be responsible for signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. It can damage collagen and elastin, which help skin look supple and youthful.
So if you want to help prevent premature aging on your hands (an early telltale sign of aging), you may want to consider the following tips. We recommend using Restorative Skin Balm before and after to instantly protect and soothe dry cuticles and hands.
UV Light for Gel Nail Polish: What can I use instead?
It will be a decade or more before we see the kind of large study scientists are talking about. In the meantime, it’s up to consumers to decide what to do.
Personally, I go for alternatives. I don’t like the idea of using something that can damage my skin cells. As someone who has already dealt with cancer, I am very interested in reducing the risk of developing more. In addition, I want to protect and prevent premature aging of my hands.
Whether the risk is worth it to you is something only you can answer. If you tend to get gel manicures often and use these devices quite often, you may be more at risk than someone who only gets manicures once in a while.
However, there are some other nail polish drying options that can work, so why not give them a try?
Use sunscreen
You could apply sunscreen to your hands before putting them under the lamp. As long as you use a broad spectrum product with an SPF of at least 30, it will help. If your hands or feet are washed or rinsed during the manicure, wait until after this step to apply sunscreen.
UV protection gloves
You can buy UV protective gloves specially made to protect your fingers when exposed to gel nail lamps. Keep in mind, however, that most leave quite a bit of skin around the nail still unprotected.
Cutoff frequency
The less you expose yourself to UV radiation, the lower your chances of developing skin cancer. Worryingly, however, just 20 minutes led to cell damage and mutations.
Stop Using Your Standard Gel Polish (Try Non-UV Gel)
Gel nail polish is unique in that it needs curing to set, usually with UV light. This solidifies the polish, giving it its trademark shine.
You can always go back to regular air dry nail polish, then you won’t need to use the UV dryer.
But if you’re sold on the look and durability of gel, there are some gel polishes called UV-free gel polish that don’t require UV to dry. They may not last as long as traditional gel, but they look the same and won’t put you at risk of skin cancer. Read the label – it should say UV-free.
Use a UV LED lamp?
Some LED lamps use a narrower spectrum of UV light, which is supposed to be “weaker” than standard UV light and reduces exposure time compared to traditional UV lamps. LED bulbs also typically run faster, which reduces exposure. We don’t yet have studies on these, however, in terms of how they affect skin cells. Harvard Health notes that both emit UV radiation and recommends protecting your hands by all means.
Ice bath
Did you know that you can help set gel polish by dipping your nails in ice water after application? Soak the nails for one to two minutes. If you can stand the cold, this is a much safer way to do it—and the method I use often!
Frozen water can be drying. Once nails, cuticles and hands are dry, apply some of ours Skin repair balm to restore softness.
Keep your hands and nails moisturized
Keeping your cuticles and hands moisturized will help keep skin healthier and protect against premature aging and further damage. Our Restorative Skin Balm provides an occlusive protective shield and will hydrate dry skin. It will help heal damaged skin, reverse dark spots and pigmentation, and restore the skin barrier. You will discover smoother, softer and healthier skin.
Note: No matter how often you put your hands under a UV drying light and how low your risk of skin cancer may be, we recommend that you always be on the lookout for signs of skin cancer. If you notice any suspicious spots on your hands (or anywhere else on your body), make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist to get it checked out.
What do you think about UV light for gel nail polish?
