As an esthetician for nearly four decades, I believe the best way to get results is to be a part of my clients’ journey, both with hands-on professional treatments and a focused skincare routine. skin type (what I like to call an “Action Plan”) to continue the results at home.
I’m starting a new series called “How I Did This” where I highlight a client who had tried it all but was only left confused with no real results. She had a fire that no one helped her put out…until she put her skin in my hands.
Hormonal hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult concerns to treat, so let’s see how I achieved these incredible results for it.
Meet Natalie!
Natalie first came to see me in 2013 (we worked out at the same gym) after multiple pregnancies left her with chronic hyperpigmentation, including patches of brown spots (also known as ‘melasma’) all over her face. When she sat in my treatment chair, she was exhausted and frankly, defeated.
Natalie’s skin review
I start every consultation with what I call “criminologists on the fingers”. I’ve always thought of myself as a detective. By touching her, feeling her, and asking her lots of questions, I’m determined to get to the bottom of it.
Her pigmentation was deep. Her skin barrier was dry and compromised. And her skin looked dull, feeling like it had lost its glow. She had done a few facials and light peels here and there, but she still wasn’t seeing any results.
Natalie’s Action Plan: “Put Out the Fire”
What I do know about hyperpigmentation is that the more aggressive you are with treating it, sometimes it just keeps the pigment cells awake. It’s like the more you do to control it, the worse it can get. These pigment cells are very active and sensitive to heat, aggression and any kind of trauma. So the approach I always use is to “put out the fire”.
The goal was to get the skin barrier to a really healthy state so we could be a little “aggressive” with our treatments since that’s all it takes to remove stubborn pigment. Once I could feel her barrier rebuilding, we introduced the active brighteners very carefully.
At home, as a skin type #6her job was to follow the Action Plan I created for her with an emphasis on keeping things calm, staying grounded, and of course wearing vitamin C, sunscreen, and base makeup every day. This puts her skin on “lock down” to prevent UV rays from disrupting our progress.
What I Did in the Therapy Room (2013)
As I mentioned, Natalie came to me in 2013. So keep in mind, these are the tools and techniques that were available at the time. We’ll see how I would treat her if she came to see me today, but let’s start with her exact treatment then.
Every two weeks we used a 20% salicylic acid skin peel, followed by Bio Brasion (a modern form of microdermabrasion for natural exfoliation), finishing with a leave-in vitamin A/retinol exfoliating cream.
This accomplished three things:
- The acid peel dissolved and digested the surface pigment cells (gentle but strong enough to avoid inflammation or burning).
- Bio Brasion’s natural exfoliation worked to provide a lifting action to help remove some of those blemished cells.
- Finishing off with a leave-in retinol cream would leave her skin peeling/peeling for the next 2-3 days.
The results from the Bio Brasion treatment will vary for each client because each person’s skin is different. While Natalie had great results, there is no guarantee that your skin will respond in the same way to the exact same treatments she had.
What I had Natalie do at home
Follow the exact pattern for skin type #6.
IN THE MORNING: Cleansing your skin in the morning, along with using additional treatments, is essential to achieving glowing and healthy skin.
Step 1: Clean me up Mint Renewal Cleanser
Step 2: Energy boosting toner
Step 3: Vitamin C&E treatment
Step 4: Apply SPF 30 weightless protection generously on both face and neck (as two separate applications)
IN THE EVENING: It’s important to wash your face and apply a light lotion at night to remove the day’s oil, dirt and makeup. This will prepare your skin for optimal recovery while you sleep.
Step 1: Cleansing emulsion with vitamin infusion directly to dry skin.
Step 2: Energy boosting toner
Step 3: Serum (alternately Advanced Resurfacing Serum, Pore + Wrinkle Perfecting Serumand Overnight Firming + Repair Serum)
Step 4: Hydraboost Rescue Creme
Step 5: Hydrabounce Firming Eye Cream
I also had Natalie follow my signing at home, which she did twice a week.
- Triple Berry Smoothing Peel (rinse)
- Triple Berry Smoothing Scrub (rinse)
- A soothing gel mask (no longer in the line, remember: it was back in 2013!)
This treatment mimicked what we did in the treatment room.
How would I treat her today in 2026
While my approach hasn’t changed much, the tools certainly have. So if Natalie walked into my treatment room today, here’s what I would do.
I would still build her plan around the same basic professional treatments:
- Chemical peels
- Bio Brasion
- Exfoliating cream with vitamin A/retinol
But I would also add dermaplaning, alternating with Bio Brasion. This is something I didn’t use back then and it makes a difference. Similar to Bio Brasion, this helps to naturally remove pigmented cells after they dissolve.
Laser treatments could also be a viable option, but we’ve had such incredible results without them that they weren’t necessary. Not only are they expensive, but they are not suitable for all skin tones. Especially deeper skin tones.
Now For The At-Home Action Plan (2026)
Since seeing Natalie in 2013, I have developed more advanced formulas to target hyperpigmentation to work with the same core products in Skin Type Action Plan #6.
If I were coaching Natalie today, her routine would also include:
- HyperFix Fading Toner: Helps to visibly fade discoloration without damaging the sensitive skin barrier.
- Bright Now Oil Serum: Gives a beautiful instant glow and targets pigmentation at the source to reduce the appearance of discoloration over time.
I actually put both of those guys in my new one Hyperpigmentation toolkit to fade dark spots to accelerate and enhance results. So if you are someone who has melasma or discoloration, you should at least get your hands on it.
What do I want you to get from this?
If you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation, here’s the deal. You don’t need the most aggressive treatments. You don’t need a laser. And you certainly don’t have to feel stuck or alone.
What actually works is following an at-home action plan for your skin type along with professional treatments from an esthetician or licensed skin care provider. Natalie’s results prove that this worked even 13 years ago. And today we just have better tools to make the process much smoother and faster.
And if you take away just one thing, let it be this: fading hyperpigmentation takes time, but putting your skin in the hands of someone who knows how to support you is the most important step to seeing results.
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Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Specialist
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 35 years researching skin, educating her audience and building an award-winning line of products. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has created a real solution — products designed to nine different skin types so your face will have exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare enthusiasts around the world, her vast real-world knowledge and constant research is why Marie Claire calls her “the most passionate skin professional we know.”
