As an Esthetician with 35 years of experience one of the questions I get asked the most is, “How can I get rid of skin discoloration?” I take this from teenagers to seniors as discoloration affects most everyone. We all want our skin to look flawless without having to hide under makeup to get the even look we desire.
Let me quickly explain the causes of unwanted skin discoloration and then we’ll jump right into my special action plan that will lead you to loving the skin you’re in.
What causes skin discoloration?
Discoloration is an overproduction of a pigment called melanin. Genetics, sun exposure, hormones and skin injury (hello blemishes!) are the most common causes. Once the melanin factory is activated, it can be difficult to calm down the rowdy pigment cells. That’s why it’s so frustrating because it can take months to disappear – especially the deeper your skin tone.
There are four types of skin pigmentation
Melasma
Large, dark brown and/or grayish spots that usually appear on the forehead, cheeks or around the mouth. Melasma is usually caused by hormonal changes from menopause and pregnancy and in those taking birth control pills, too. In my professional experience, I never see it in the teenage years, but I see melasma more often for women in their 30s (the years of pregnancy).
Since the goal is to put the melanin cells to sleep so they fade, many people stress their skin by over-exfoliating at home and get too aggressive with chemical peels and microneedling only to find that they keep those cells awake. Their attempts to get rid of the discoloration can often make it worse.
I tell people all the time that we need to “put out the fire” so that when we focus on calming and soothing skin inflammation, the discoloration can begin to subside. Sometimes, less is more with melasma.
Post breakup signs
Also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) they are small, individual dark spots. red, purple spots left by trauma to the skin, whether it was a blemish or even bites, cuts or scratches.
The key to avoiding breakout marks and scars is to:
- Prevent breakouts from occurring in the first place. Easier said than done, but consulting with a skin care professional who specializes in acne (like me!) can help you create a plan of action to help the type of acne you have, because after all, not all breakouts are created equal. As I wrote in this post, Tea Tree Oil can help with acnecan go a long way in preventing blemishes.
- When an outbreak occurs, you MUST treat the blemish with the right spot treatment at the right stage in the life cycle. Read all about the life cycle of stains to prevent unnecessary discoloration.
- Don’t choose. Tempting, I know, but it’s important to understand that you’re creating a post-breakout discoloration that will last longer. Read how to kick your skin-picking habit – once and for all.
I had a client who was a lifelong picker and you can see the damage showing up even much later in life.
Age/sun spots
These range from light brown to dark brown and are a result of cumulative sun exposure that come alive more often in the 40s as pigment cells rise to the surface with age.
Deeper skin tones are more prone to having more melanin in the skin, so they will experience this more than lighter skin tones, but everyone will get this to some degree. So consider it just part of how skin will inevitably show aging.
Age-related discoloration doesn’t just appear on the face, it can also appear on the neck. There is a condition called polychoderma and I personally deal with it. Read about the discoloration on my neck and how I improved it.
Then, of course, the breasts have to get in on the discoloration fun. I had a really, really bad sunburn once and the discoloration damage is still showing up years later. Check out the sun damage on my chest.
Freckles
Small brown spots that appear during childhood — freckles are a genetic condition. When everyone is born, they come out of the womb with perfectly pigmented skin (you’ve never seen a baby with freckles, right?), but from the age of three for those who are genetically prone to them, they can start to appear as soon as their skin is exposed to the sun.
People who have freckles somehow think they have more sun damage to their skin than those who don’t, but that’s simply wrong. Freckles, while a form of discoloration, are simply genetic from overactive melanin cells. One of your parents probably has them and they seem to be more common in redheads.
It’s really trendy right now for people to use makeup to get freckles, like my client Sabrina Carpenter who applies them to get that “cute” effect. this image of us.
But like any discoloration, heat from the hot sun, saunas and steam rooms can make them worse.
My at-home bleaching action plan
Ok, now you know many of the ways that discoloration can show up, now what? Through all my education, training and having touched thousands of faces over the years, I have come up with the best at home strategy to at least keep the discoloration from getting worse, but if you are really diligent and dedicated, you should definitely see visible improvement. My clients love the results they see with this plan and you should too.
#1: Put your melanin cells to sleep
When pigments appear on the skin, they are in their active stage and the goal is to encourage them to calm down. Research shows that using vitamin C serum it will help interrupt the signals sent to the melanocytes to help them fade faster.
But of course, you do NOT want to get acid burn with Vitamin C, so I recommend a stable, non-stinging one using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) as found in Vitamin C&E treatment. This will quickly help interrupt the signals sent to the melanocytes.
A newer ingredient, which is also very effective in eliminating visible red, purple and brown hyperpigmentation is tranexamic acid, a synthetic form of the amino acid lysine. It is not an acid exfoliator, but has proven brightening benefits by reducing excess melanin without bleaching the skin.
Using a toner morning and night after cleansing with this ingredient is very effective in dealing with stubborn hyperpigmentation. HyperFix Fading Toner it’s a product that I recommend using all year round, including summer, when pigment cells are most active.
#2: Dissolve unwanted pigment cells with an acid peel
When applied to the skin, acids such as glycolic, malic and lactic act to lower the skin’s pH and acidify it so that discolored cells are dissolved and digested to allow removal.
This includes serums that leave on overnight, such as Pore + Wrinkle Perfecting Serum or a once-weekly exfoliating treatment such as Triple Berry Smoothing Peel.
#3: Remove discoloration with a gentle scrub
This is KEY and often overlooked. Facial scrubs have become unpopular in recent years (here’s why) as acids gained popularity, but since a scrub is gentle using round beads, when massaged into the face for 60 seconds, it really gives instant gratification to lighten the appearance of pigmentation. These natural exfoliants are essential to use 2-3 times a week if you really want to see improvement.
Triple Berry Smoothing Scrub it’s great for an instant glow and your skin will love it. (Skeptical about using a face scrub? Read on for why scrubs are vital for removing discoloration.)
#4: Block daily UV rays with sunscreen – even when indoors
We all know the importance of daily sunscreen, but…you have to use it ALL the time of the day. So what does this mean? If you’re indoors all day and daylight (even if it’s cloudy) comes through the windows and onto your skin, it keeps those unwanted pigment cells awake. Remember, the goal is to put the melanin cells to sleep. Code word for…go away!
What I see it most is for oily, acne-prone skin types. They’re afraid to use sunscreen because so many of them are heavy and full of oils and can lead to breakouts, so people will avoid them. But what if you could use a sunscreen that would NOT clog pores? Here is where SPF 30 weightless protection goes inside.
#5: Give extra protection with foundation makeup
In the spirit of blocking UV rays, did you know that makeup, even if it doesn’t say it contains sunscreen, will still work like sunscreen? This is because makeup is made with iron oxides, which are ingredients used in sunscreens that block natural protection. To make sure you’re really protecting your skin from harmful UV rays, think of makeup as an extension of your skincare routine. I wear it at all hours of the day, no matter what.
If you’re someone prone to breakouts, foundations can be challenging as they are notorious for clogging pores. Check out my favorite foundations for oily, acne-prone skin types.
Well, here it is. This is my best home action plan to get rid of skin discoloration faster.
Say hello to more even skin — The Renée Way.
When it comes to professional treatments, there are absolutely beneficial procedures for eliminating stubborn hyperpigmentation. This includes chemical peels and laser treatments. Consult a trusted esthetician or skin care professional about which treatments are best for you.
Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Specialist
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 35 years researching skin, educating her audience and building an award-winning line of products. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has created a real solution — products designed to nine different skin types so your face will have exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare enthusiasts around the world, her vast real-world knowledge and constant research is why Marie Claire calls her “the most passionate skin professional we know.”
