I’ve been writing about skin care for over a decade and have tried what feels like every product under the sun (special message to my SPFs). Acids are my personal favorite and have always been a part of my routine. So when azelaic acid started blowing up my social media feed seemingly out of nowhere, I had to learn more. It has been thrown under the radar forever and somehow I had missed this skincare ingredient. Now that it’s been a while, I decided to give it a try. I added it to my nightly skincare routine for four weeks to discover the benefits of azelaic acid and see what all the new hype is about.
What is Azelaic Acid? | Benefits of Azelaic Acid | My experience | My results
Acids in skin care
Acids have been part of the skincare conversation forever. After all, these powerhouses are known to help with everything from acne to aging. And while the word “acid” may conjure up images of chemical burns and science labs, some of them are quite mild and are real players in the skin care world. Used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin thickness, improve the appearance of scars and even out skin tone, they are versatile and effective. Some come from nature, while others are actually made in labs – and when used as directed they can produce amazing results.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it an effective ally in the treatment of skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. The acid can prevent future breakouts and even clear acne-causing bacteria from pores while protecting the skin and reducing the appearance of redness. Some people use azelaic to treat acne scars in addition to active breakouts, as it encourages cell turnover and can reduce the appearance of texture on the skin.
Aside from its acne treatment uses, azelaic acid has age-defying benefits! It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve uneven skin tone. With all these potential outcomes in mind, I decided to give this “new” acid a try. While my acne issues are minor (I struggle with large pores and some redness), I’m always looking to slow down the signs of aging, even out my skin tone, and address mild hyperpigmentation that has found its way onto my face. recent years. some years.
The benefits of Azelaic Acid
Acne treatment
As mentioned, azelaic acid is an effective ally in its treatment Acne though takes some time to start working and can come with side effects such as skin burning, dryness and peeling. For these reasons, azelaic acid alone is not usually a dermatologist’s first choice for treating acne on its own, although it is often combined with other active ingredients such as salicylic acid. It helps clear your pores of bacteria that can cause irritation or breakouts, reducing inflammation so acne becomes less visible, less red and less irritated.
Salicylic acid softens a protein in your skin called keratin. This can help keep your pores from clogging, reducing the appearance of pimples. When used in combination, salicylic and azelaic acids can be a dream team. Azelaic acid not only unclogs pores, but also helps kill acne-causing bacteria on your skin. Plus, it can even out your skin tone by getting rid of free radicals, toxins that can damage your cells. Victory victory.
Helps with rosacea
Azelaic acid works to treat rosacea by reducing swelling and redness of the skin. It’s a great addition to a skin care routine because its soothing properties help calm redness and sensitivity. As mentioned above, it’s also a mild exfoliant, meaning it can unclog and refine pores. This helps target the bumps, breakouts and enlarged pores commonly associated with rosacea-prone skin.
Reduces Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation results from an overproduction of melanin and appears as dark spots or patches on the skin. Because it’s a mild exfoliant, azelaic acid is a great choice for smoothing your skin and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase which leads to these dark marks on the skin.
Helps manage the appearance of inflamed skin
According MindBodyGreen, research shows that azelaic acid has “profound anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits,” which contribute to many of the other positive effects of azelaic acid. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals, which then stops the inflammatory process. Acne and rosacea are both forms of inflammation, so it’s no wonder that azelaic acid is a common use for treatment.
Improves the appearance of scars
Since it can be so effective at fading hyperpigmentation and managing inflammation, azelaic acid is also commonly used to treat and prevent acne scars. It gently stimulates the cell cycle so your skin heals faster and scars are minimized.
Adding azelaic acid to my routine
As his employee Eminence Organics, I have access to all their products. I did a quick search and discovered azelaic acid in a peel that seemed to fit my needs. The Clear Skin Willow Bark Exfoliating Peel is a liquid solution for deep cleansing and clarifying used with double-textured cotton pads. It contains gentle salicylic acid to remove surface impurities and pollutants from the skin, allowing the action of biosulfur and tomato extract to help balance sebum. Willow bark calms the complexion, while lilac and my new BFF, azelaic acid, help reduce redness, inflammation and pore size, leaving skin clean, smooth and refreshed. Like I said, my kind of product.
A happy customer, Alexa S.calls it “Game-changing for [the look of] acne marks,” saying in an online review, “I used this product at night and literally the next morning my skin was firmer and smoother. I’m already seeing a decrease [the appearance of] my cystic acne scars and I had no irritation. Even with my sensitive skin, my face doesn’t get too red after using it. I will definitely be using this product for years to come.”
I decided to use it at night after cleansing my skin with my favorite Stone Crop Cleansing Oil. I put two pumps on the cotton pads and spread it in circular motions all over my face and neck. I also applied to my décolleté as I have a very uneven skin tone from some unfortunate sunburns in my earlier years.
I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it didn’t feel so much like a sting. Just a light layer of liquid that dried almost immediately, leaving my skin moist and maybe the tiniest bit sticky, but in a good way. Some nights I left it like that, while other nights I waited about 10 minutes and then applied a layer of Ride-or-Die Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil before climbing into bed.
Product options
For problematic skin types
Restore balance and remove…
My results using azelaic acid
After about four weeks of using it, I’ve noticed a few things. First of all, my skin feels and looks clean. Maybe it’s because I haven’t had a single blemish or breakout since introducing this to my evening routine, or maybe it’s because I’m a sucker for a gentle exfoliator. My pores look smaller and my skin looks fresh and renewed. According Carmen Castilla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York: “In cosmetic formulas, azelaic acid acts as an exfoliant to promote skin cell renewal and unclog pores, while also having mild anti-inflammatory properties.” Check, check, check. My skin is also softer and smoother than before. I notice my makeup goes on a little easier and stays put all day without any dry patches or streaks. I also feel like the rest of my skin care absorbs more evenly into my skin.
Another big takeaway is that my skin looks more even. Dark spots that have bothered me for years look lighter and less noticeable — especially on my chest. It’s a subtle change but enough to keep me on this new skin care regimen to see where it goes.
Of course, I wouldn’t be doing my job if I didn’t point out the importance of wearing SPF while using azelaic acid. It’s always recommended to wear sunscreen when going outside, but be especially careful to wear products with SPF when using azelaic acid, as it can make your skin more sensitive and prone to sun damage.
Overall, I’m glad I discovered this ingredient and I’m thrilled with the results so far. Again, it’s a slow and steady process, but it’s worth the wait!
Interested in adding azelaic acid to your routine? Visit an Eminence Organics Spa partner to find out which products are right for you.
