Discover your skin’s Hierarchy of Needs

If you’ve ever looked at your bathroom shelf and wondered, Does my skin really need all this? you are in good company. With new launches, trendy ingredients and endless tutorials, skincare can quickly go from exciting to overwhelming.

Dermatologists often turn to a simple but powerful tool to bring clarity back into the routine: the Pyramid for skin health and beauty. Originally developed by experts including Dr. Zoe Diana Draelou, the pyramid includes a auxiliary component hierarchy (from daily essentials to optional boosters) so you can focus on what matters.

“The pyramid helps people understand what’s next,” shares Berta Ochoa, ISDINCEUTICS Brand Director. “You don’t have to do everything at once. Once you get the foundation down, you can level up.”

Below, we’ll look at how the skincare pyramid works, and how to use it to create a routine that feels balanced, purposeful, and supports long-term skin health.

What is the Skincare Pyramid?

Think of the skincare pyramid as a map to build your routine with intention. It answers one of the most common questions: What should my skincare routine look like?

And running through the entire structure is a constant: hydration and barrier support, the common thread that helps everything run smoothly.

This simple setup can help you create a skin care routine that meets you where you are, while keeping your long-term goals in mind.

Always on: Hydration & barrier support

Hydration is not a single step. Your skin needs moisture and barrier support morning and night, no matter which level of the pyramid you focus on.

This is because your skin’s natural barrier helps it stay comfortable while fighting dryness. What more? Optimal moisture levels can enhance elasticity and help the skin tolerate stronger ingredients.

Overall, when your obstacle is balanced, the rest of your routine feels off smoother and more efficient. Meet the star ingredient that can help you get there:

Hyaluronic acid

This hygroscopic that attracts water it comes in multiple molecular weights, sometimes even within the same serum.

• High molecular weight forms hydrate the surface for instant freshness.
• Low molecular weight forms reach deeper layers for lasting comfort.

With hydration in place, Your skin is ready for what comes next.

Level 1: Protection

You’ve heard it before: never skip the sunscreen. Dermatologists consistently name SPF as the most important part of any routine to keep skin healthy over time.

“It’s tempting to put the cart before the horse (ie, try the retina before finding a sunscreen you love). Instead, get the basics down first: healthy, protected skin is always the best place to start,” says Ochoa.

But you need to protect your skin from more than just these UV rays. Every day, your skin is exposed to pollution, changing temperatures and other environmental stressors – also referred to as exposures. These stressors can lead to oxidative damage and visible signs of aging.

That’s why Sun protection is always best when paired with antioxidant protection— either in your sunscreen or in an overnight recovery serum.

Basic antioxidants

• Mediterranean algae extract: This lesser-known ingredient contains two powerful antioxidants that help support the skin’s natural defense system.
• Vitamin C: This classic antioxidant helps defend against environmental stressors and supports a brighter tone.
• Melatonin: Included in night formulas to help the skin deal with oxidative stress accumulated during the day.

Protection sets the tone for all that follows. Without it, the rest of your routine can’t perform to its full potential.

Level 2: Transformation

Once your foundation is strong, you can add ingredients that help improve texture, support renewal, and tackle the visible signs of aging head-on. It’s tempting to only focus your efforts here, but remember, they perform best on protected, hydrated skin.

Retinoids

Retinoids encourage the skin’s natural rate of renewal, which gradually slows down with age. Over time, they help support smooth texture and a more refined look.

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative known for its effectiveness. Think of it as retinol’s faster cousin for targeting wrinkles and fine lines.

Hydroxy acids

These chemical exfoliants help remove surface buildup that can make skin look dull or congested.

• AHA (such as glycolic acid): Water soluble and known for more intensive exfoliation.
• BHA (such as salicylic acid): Oil-soluble and useful for visible pores and excess oiliness.
• PHA: Larger, slower penetrating molecules ideal for more sensitive or easily irritated skin.

“People love the transformation level because that’s where they really start to see visible changes,” notes Ochoa. “But these changes are easier to make when the foundations are already strong.”

Level 3: Optimization

At the top of the pyramid are ingredients for those wondering, What else can I do for my skin? These aren’t necessary for everyone, but they can help you improve and upgrade an already established routine.

Peptides

Peptides are small chains of amino acids that act as messengers for the skin.

• Signal peptides support the production of natural protein.
• Neurotransmitter peptides help soften the appearance of expression lines.
• Carrier peptides they play a role in comfort and repair.

Repairs

In this category, we differ a little from the traditional pyramid, with a focus on repairs rather than growth factors or stem cells. This component family is designed to aid in repair accumulated sun damage. They use specialized extracts and supportive compounds to clean up the mistakes made in your skin’s history by UV exposure.

• DNA Repairsomes®: Also known as photolyase, derived from plankton. Studies show that photolyase helps repair sun damage.
• Night Repairsomes®: A complex of three powerful ingredients (Micrococcus lysate, diosmin and niacinamide) that help calm the skin, reduce the visible signs of photoaging and support healthy overnight renewal.

“I think that layer is the extra flourish — the finishing touch,” adds Ochoa. “Not essential for everyone, but perfect for when you’re ready to take your routine a step further.”

Making the pyramid work

Considering all three levels, the Pyramid for skin health and beauty offers a gentle, intuitive way to build (or upgrade) your routine.

Here’s the easy flow to remember: start with protection, add transformative ingredients when your skin feels ready, and finally focus on optimization. Meanwhile, hydration must remain constant.

Most importantly, the pyramid encourages a consistent, needs-based approach to skin care: simple, purposeful, and designed for long-term skin health. It’s not about doing more — it’s about choosing carefully, listening to your skin, and enjoying the journey.

Reference:

“The Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid: A Clinically Based Guide to Choosing Topical Skin Care Products.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDDonline).

Amy is a content strategist who turned a part-time skincare obsession into a full-time passion. Her experience as a creative storyteller includes a range of lifestyle and technology topics in Washington DC and Barcelona. What’s in her travel bag? Eye contour cream and sunscreen, always.