“Think of vitamin C as an important step in equipping your skin to face the day ahead,” Casey said. “Topical vitamin C prepares the skin to deal with all the pollution, inflammation, UV damage it encounters during the day and offers that extra layer of protection against environmental irritants.”
As with any product, there are a wide variety of factors that can affect the different price points between two vitamin C serums.
“The quality and concentration of vitamin C used in the formulation can significantly affect the price,” said Hsu, an Illinois dermatologist.
As the concentration of vitamin C in a serum increases, so does the price. And while more isn’t necessarily better when it comes to this ingredient, consumers should make sure their serum contains enough vitamin C to be effective.
“Consumers should look for vitamin C concentrations between 10-20%Casey advised. “Concentrations above 20% really don’t offer any significant added benefit and can be more irritating to the skin. People with dry or sensitive skin should start with a lower concentration of around 10%.
But for all the benefits of this ingredient, there is one major drawback. In its pure form – ascorbic acid – it is notorious for expiring quickly. However, there are several vitamin C derivatives that prove to be more stable than pure ascorbic acid. These products can last longer on your shelf, but the trade-off is that these derivatives are priced higher.
“Pure ascorbic acid is not stable except in liposomal form,” King explained. “Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 3-o-ethyl-ascorbic acid are forms of vitamin C that are more stable but also more expensive.”
In the long run, it may also benefit consumers to pay a bit more for a serum from a company that prioritizes quality control.
“Manufacturing process and production standards can also affect costs,” Hsu said. “Brands that prioritize strict quality control measures, advanced standardization techniques and use high-quality packaging materials may command a higher price to cover these costs.”
Additional ingredients and patents
“Vitamin C becomes unstable when dissolved in water,” Casey said. “Thus, combining vitamin C with complementary ingredients such as vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid and glutathione help to stabilize vitamin C, thereby maintaining its potency and effectiveness.“
While these additional ingredients can allow the product to last longer, they can also make it more expensive.
HOWEVER……Packaging And Marketing
Sometimes it’s just the packaging and marketing costs that drive up the price of a particular serum.
“It’s worth noting that some retail brands may apply a higher markup to their products based solely on their brand name, regardless of their actual composition or ingredients,” Hsu said. “In some skin care retail cases, some reputable brands with a strong presence in the skin care market often invest in extensive marketing and prime product placements in large stores, where they then factor this cost into their markup.“
However, packaging for vitamin C serums isn’t always just for show. Packaging can play an important role in product effectiveness and shelf life.
“Although the brand and the box your vitamin C bottle arrives in do not affect the effectiveness of the vitamin C serum, the bottle or tube that contains the vitamin C does,” Casey said. “Vitamin C can oxidize more quickly when exposed to air and light, so an airtight container that is opaque or made of dark glass is best.”
This is also why it is important for consumers to store vitamin C serums in a dark, cool place with the top tightly closed. “Vitamin C serums stored in the dark undergo oxidative degradation at a much slower rate compared to serums stored in the lightCasey said.
Is it better to pay more money for a higher priced serum?
Considering that more expensive ingredients, packaging, and formulations are generally used to create long-lasting serums, is it better to pay for a more expensive vitamin C serum?
“It’s not better to invest in a more expensive serum based solely on pricingHsu said. “It is highly recommended that you choose a traditional medical-grade vitamin C product, as medical-grade vitamin C skin care formulations have extensive scientific data and clinical studies to support their effectiveness.” Medical-grade skin care products are only distributed in the offices of dermatologists or medical estheticians, Hsu said.
Rather than relying solely on product price, user reviews, or influencer recommendations, it’s always best for consumers to look at cold data to get the most out of it.
“As dermatologists we prefer to see clinical studies that objectively evaluate the effectiveness of a vitamin C serum. Clinical evidence is the best way to compare different serums on the marketCasey said.
However, not all data and studies are created equal. Hsu recommends that consumers consider several factors when evaluating these studies.
“Factors such as study size, measurement methods and whether the data have been peer-reviewed affect the reliability of the information,” he said. “Therefore, a thorough analysis is necessary to ensure the validity and accuracy of the data before drawing conclusions about the product’s effectiveness.”
How do I know if my vitamin C serum is working?
Everyone who loves skin care is familiar with the struggle of reading the clinical studies that support a product’s effectiveness, taking the plunge and buying that holy grail of skin care that everyone loves online… only to find that it doesn’t work for their skin.
“There is no ‘one size fits all’ when it comes to vitamin C serums,” Casey said. “Just because a certain formula worked for your friend or sister doesn’t mean it’s the best product for you.”
So how can consumers make sure their serum is the right choice?
Start with proper usage
“I always advise my patients to apply a vitamin C serum as part of their morning skin care regimen because of the antioxidant benefits and synergistic UV protection that vitamin C adds when layered under your sunscreen,” Casey said.
To get the full benefits of vitamin C, consumers should also make sure they apply their skin care products in the correct order.
“Vitamin C is an active ingredient, so you want to apply it to dry skin before any moisturizer or oil that can act as a barrier to the penetration of the active ingredients,” advises Casey.
It is also important to avoid applying vitamin C with other active ingredients such as retinol, AHAs and BHAs. And when it comes to people with sensitive skin, it’s best to take vitamin C low and slow.
“If a vitamin C serum causes redness, irritation or inflammation, the application time should be adjusted accordingly [decreasing] the frequency of application is once or twice a week,” Casey said.
Consistency, Consistency, Consistency
And as with all good things, patience pays off when it comes to vitamin C. Don’t expect changes overnight.
“Vitamin C’s job is to boost collagen synthesis, which your skin should feel firmer after 28 days,” King said. “It also brightens the skin and you should start to see a difference within 28 days.”
Taking before and after photos is another helpful way for consumers to get proof of whether a particular serum is a winner or a bummer for their skin.
“I tell patients to take a photo before treatment and then compare a photo, with the same angles and lighting, three months later,” Casey said.
And when in doubt, it’s always a good idea to consult a professional.
“Consultation with a dermatologist or health care professional can provide further guidance and monitoring for skin changesHsu said.
Odor and Color
As vitamin C is well-known for its volatility, it’s important to keep an eye – and a nose – for any changes in the serum’s smell once it’s been opened.
Some customers may notice a “rubbery” or “hot dog” smell coming from their vitamin C serums. Does a “rubbery” smell from a vitamin C serum mean it’s working? Or does it mean it has expired?
“Vitamin C in its pure state has no detectable odor, but the addition of a stabilizing agent, such as ferulic acid, can impart a burning odor,” Casey said. “Since vitamin C is very unstable on its own, the benefit of adding a stabilizing agent such as ferulic acid enhances the effectiveness of the active vitamin C ingredient.”
If the serum uses ferulic acid, this particular “rubber” smell may mean that it is “working” in the sense that it prevents the oxidation of vitamin C. However, if a vitamin C product has a noticeably bad smell – especially if the product it didn’t smell like that when it was first opened – it might be time to throw it out.
“Any noticeable odor should be an indication that the vitamin C product has expired or degraded,” Hsu said.
In conclusion:
If you have sensitive or dry skin, if you have allergies and many products leave your skin irritated, do not use a high concentration of vitamin C. I always recommend looking for a concentration between 5-10% max if you want your skin to feel good, hydrated, look more glowing and yet not feeling red and irritated.
As you learned from this article, Vitamin C can be quite unstable, so we, at EpiLynx, always combine Vitamin C with Hyaluronic Acid and Ferulic Acid to help stabilize Vitamin C, thus maintaining its potency and effectiveness.
Also, regarding the packaging, Vitamin C can oxidize faster when exposed to air and light, so an airtight container that is opaque or made of dark glass is best, which is all EpiLynx uses.
And… as a final conclusion: NO, IT IS NOT you’re better off investing in a more expensive serum based solely on price, but it’s highly recommended that you read the ingredients, make sure the vitamin C is in glass and airtight dark packaging, and buy from a brand that’s transparent about how it’s made of and ingredients the use.
