written by: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Posted on January 11thu2025 at 6:00 am
Adaptogens are another popular category of skin care ingredients that is gaining in popularity and prevalence. Youth to the People was one of the first major skin care brands to launch a product with adaptogens as a hero ingredient. However, an adaptogen is not just one thing. is a group of plants. These stress-fighting plant extracts support plants when they are under environmental stress, and now people want to see if they can bring the same benefits to humans. Today, the benefits of adaptogens available on the market range from soothing irritation to enhancing hydration. But are these benefits backed by science? Let’s dive into everything we know about some of the most popular adaptogens in skin care today from science.
What is an adaptogen?
Adaptogens are natural compounds found in certain plants and mushrooms that help them survive harsh conditions, such as extreme weather or nutrient-poor soil. These compounds act like the plant’s personal defense system, protecting it from stress. Adaptogens benefit plants in a similar way that antioxidants help our bodies prevent damage from environmental stressors. So it makes sense that brands would want to see if they can use these adaptogens in skin care to impart some of these benefits to our skin, like calming irritation or helping the skin stay strong against things such as pollution or dryness. They have been used for centuries in traditional medicine and are now being added to modern products to try to harness their calming and healing effects.
Related post: Antioxidants in skin care, what are they and what do they do?
1. Ashwagandha
Ashwagandha is one of the most popular adaptogens. The high concentration of antioxidants in the plant and its resulting extracts make it valuable in skin care. Emerging research highlights ashwagandha’s potential as a powerful topical skin care ingredient, offering benefits supported by both science and traditional Ayurvedic practices. Studies show that ashwagandha can improve skin hydration, elasticity and barrier strength, making it effective against visible signs of aging. For example, a clinical study showed that a 8% ashwagandha root extract lotion, formulated to 5% with anolides (powerful antioxidants)significantly reduced moisture loss and combated oxidative stress caused by free radicals—unstable molecules from UV rays, pollution, and other environmental factors that accelerate skin aging.
Ashwagandha’s versatility shines in multitasking formulations alongside ingredients like sodium hyaluronate and niacinamide, which boost hydration, tone and firmness. Its antibacterial and antifungal properties may help address microbial imbalances, reducing acne and irritation. However, the effectiveness of ashwagandha in skin care relies on stable concentrations of active compounds. To ensure maximum benefits, look for products with clinically studied formulations and data-backed claims.
Related post: Ashwagandha Skin Benefits: What You Really Need to Know Before You Buy
If you want to add an antioxidant boost to your morning routine. An ashwagandha serum could be a great option right before you apply your sunscreen.
2. Reishi mushroom
Known for: Soothing inflammation and hydration
Reishi mushroom, often referred to as the “mushroom of immortality”, is rich in beta-glucans and antioxidants. Reishi mushrooms are mostly ~90% water. However, when turned into a concentrated skin care extract, the remaining 10% – rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes – provides the active benefits. Polysaccharides act as natural humectants, similar to hyaluronic acid, drawing and holding water to the skin’s surface to keep it hydrated and plump. Triterpenes, on the other hand, are small antioxidants with powerful anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe redness, fight free radicals, and reduce irritation.
Related post: 10 Effective Natural Alternatives to Hyaluronic Acid
While there is limited research directly evaluating the effects of Reishi mushroom extract on human skin, evidence suggests that its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities play a role in preventing premature aging. Polysaccharides, in particular, are well-studied for their moisturizing properties, making Reishi mushrooms a science-backed ingredient for boosting skin hydration when properly formulated into skin care products.
If you’re looking for a hydrating serum, one with reishi mushroom extract could be a great choice.
3. Ginseng
A staple of Traditional Chinese Medicine, ginseng is renowned for its rejuvenating properties. It boosts circulation, which helps improve skin tone and reduce dullness. Ginseng is also packed with antioxidants that protect against premature aging and environmental damage.
4. Tremella mushroom
Snow mushrooms, also known as Tremella fuciformis, are rich in polysaccharides, making them excellent natural moisturizers for the skin. These polysaccharides work similarly to hyaluronic acid, forming a protective layer on the surface of the skin that attracts and holds moisture, keeping the skin plump and hydrated.
Like many other adaptogens in skin care, snow mushrooms have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and soothing redness or irritation. These properties make snow mushrooms particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin and are often included in formulations aimed at improving skin elasticity and overall hydration levels.
5. Licorice root
Known for: Illuminating and soothing
Licorice root is renowned for its ability to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Two key compounds, Glabridin and Liquiritin, work to improve skin tone. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, while Liquiritin disperses existing melanin to prevent visible dark spots. Clinical studies have even shown licorice root extract to be just as effective as hydroquinone in improving skin tone, without the unwanted side effects.
Related post: Unveiling Nature’s Hyperpigmentation Super Ingredient: Licorice Root Skin Benefits
For acne-prone skin, licorice root offers anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties to soothe irritation and fight acne-causing bacteria. In addition, it helps regulate sebum production, reducing the risk of clogged pores and breakouts. This makes licorice root one of the most versatile adaptogens in skin care to brighten uneven skin and support clearer, balanced skin.
How to choose the right adaptogen for your skin
When choosing a skincare product with adaptogens, consider your skin’s unique needs:
- For hydration: Look for tremella mushroom or reishi mushroom.
- For shine: Prefer licorice root.
- For antiaging: Try ashwagandha or tremella mushrooms.
- To calm irritations: Reishi mushroom are excellent choices.
Adaptogens in skin care are not new, but they are becoming more and more popular. Adaptogens are an emerging class of ingredients for mainstream skin care. However, they form the backbone of many traditional forms of medicine. They offer the potential for natural solutions to stress, aging and environmental damage. These are some of the most common skin care concerns. And science is gradually developing to support these benefits. So, as the scientific support only grows, I expect adaptogens in skin care to become more and more common. Whether it’s the hero ingredient or one of several active ingredients in a well-formulated product, whether you’re looking to calm inflammation, boost hydration, or rejuvenate your skin, there’s an adaptogen out there for you.
