Glycolic Acid: What It Is and How to Use It

Sugar cane and healthy, beautiful skin — what could these two have in common? Turns out this plant doesn’t just sweeten things up, it also brings us the dermatologist’s favorite skincare ingredient glycolic acid.

A naturally derived powerhouse, glycolic acid is known for its brightening, smoothing and unifying properties. Join us as we share its long list of benefits and how to incorporate it into your routine. The journey to glowing skin begins now — ready to come?

THE BASICS

GLYCOLIC ACID 

WHAT IT IS: An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane.

WHAT IT DOES: This exfoliant helps support skin turnover, improve texture, add brightness, and balance out oil levels.

WHO IT'S FOR: Depending on the concentration, glycolic acid can be gentle enough for all skin types. But it's best to start slow and consult your dermatologist.

HOW TO USE IT: Use it at night on clean, dry skin via serum, cream or gel formulas.

GOES WELL WITH: Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol

DON’T MIX WITH: Space out the use of vitamin C products (opt for vitamin C in the morning and glycolic acid at night). As for retinal, consider alternating nights using the skin cycling method.

TRY IT IN: Glicoisdin®

What is glycolic acid?

This alpha-hydroxy acid is one of the most popular for a few reasons. Among them, glycolic acid is the simplest in structure and the smallest in size — meaning it has a low molecular weight. Why is this important? These characteristics allow it to easily penetrate the skin, working to exfoliate. One of the strengths of glycolic acid is just that: the ability to act on all layers of your skin.

How Glycolic Acid Works

• As an exfoliant: It acts on the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin). In this layer, glycolic acid dissolves the bonds that keep dead or aging skin cells stuck to the surface. By dissolving these bonds, it facilitates their removal. And this gentle exfoliation helps your skin look fresher, brighter and more even.
• As a skin rejuvenator: Penetrates the layers of the skin to support its collagen. This action helps skin feel firmer and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The result? Smooth, glowing and even skin.
• As a brightener: Through its exfoliating and rejuvenating action, glycolic acid helps the skin to shine as much as possible. It also supports oily skin by reducing the buildup of dead cells that can clog pores, as well as smoothing any texture or dark spots left behind by old breakouts.

Even more good news? This multitasker can offer all of the above at the same time. However, another benefit glycolic acid offers is that it’s customizable — using higher or lower concentrations can help you focus on one skin benefit or another.

Which concentration of free glycolic acid is right for you?

Since different benefits shine through in different glycolic acid formulas, choosing the right concentration is crucial. Overall, the lower percentages are ideal for gentle exfoliation, while the higher percentages fight spots, wrinkles and blemishes.

Here are the specifics:

Concentrations of light

A free glycolic acid concentration of less than 4% is considered low. This amount offers gentle exfoliation, perfect for first-timers with AHAs or those with dry skin looking to boost elasticity and luminosity.

Moderate to heavy concentrations

A concentration of free glycolic acid between 4% and 8% is considered a medium level, where continued use helps renew skin texture and tone.

Once your skin gets used to it, you can try a concentration of free glycolic acid between 8% and 10%. This level is perfect for experienced AHA users who want to minimize the overall signs of skin aging.

How to introduce glycolic acid into your routine

Now that you know the theory, it’s time to put it into practice. they wonder how often should you exfoliate your skin? No matter your skin type or your skincare goals, it’s always best to start low and slow. As your skin gets used to the glycolic acid, you can choose a higher concentration (if needed).

It doesn’t matter where you start, there are a few important things to consider:

Clean skin is the first step

Clear skin is like a blank canvas — providing the perfect foundation for all the products in your routine to work as intended. So, whether you choose glycolic acid in serum, gel or cream form, the first step should always be cleansing.

To get the best results? Use a gentle oil-in-milk formula that not only cleanses, but also moisturizes.

Combine it with the right ingredients

While it may be gentle enough for sensitive skin, glycolic acid is still one acid. And as with any other ingredient, there are combinations that are best to avoid. A simple rule? Avoid other products containing strong acids, such as salicylic or lactic acid.

Generally, it’s not likely to clash with your favorite eye contour or trusty moisturizer. But, when in doubt, always consult the ingredients with your dermatologist.

The perfect allies? Products with hyaluronic acid or aloe vera can help keep skin calm and hydrated.

Sunscreen is essential

Sunscreen is a must in any routine, whether it includes exfoliation or not. However, it is even more important when using glycolic acid. This ingredient can make the skin more sensitive in general and therefore more sensitive to the sun — increasing the risks of sun damage and sun spots. But Broad spectrum sunscreen works to protect you from this and more. In fact, it’s the perfect last step in your routine to prep your skin for the day ahead.

By following these three tips, you can feel confident adding glycolic acid to your nighttime skincare routine with ease.

Just the FAQs

Can glycolic acid harm the skin?

Glycolic acid is still an acid. And if used excessively or aggressively, it has the potential to cause irritation. But in the right concentrations and frequencies, glycolic acid is an ideal ingredient. If you follow proper skin prep, check in with your dermatologist regularly, and use sunscreen during the day, you should be good to go.

Who is it suitable for?

Glycolic acid is a friend to all skin types (when used in the right amount). Look for customized formulas that target your skin type and needs.

For sensitive skin, gentle glycolic acid products with vitamin E can help soothe and protect. With more intense products, look for formulas including aloe vera to soothe the effects of higher acid concentrations. Your skin is unique — tailor your routine to what works best for you.

What is more effective: glycolic acid or retinal?

Both are great choices depending on your skin goals. Glycolic acid is perfect for brightening and improving skin texture, while retinol is great for supporting skin renewal and minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. Even better? They can complement each other! After your skin gets used to both ingredients, try using both (on alternating days) to maximize results.

Exfoliate, brighten, renew — this hero ingredient is multi-faceted, just like you. Here’s a gentle reminder you deserve a skincare routine that makes you feel radiant both inside and outside.