Retinol is considered a holy grail antiaging product and has benefits for short-term use in the treatment of acne. However, I strongly disagree with its long-term use for “anti-aging” purposes. I believe that prolonged use of retinol is the root cause of many modern skin problems, from compromised skin barriers to increased sensitivity. This exemplifies a pervasive issue in skin care: the very products intended to treat problems are often the ones causing harm.
What makes it worse is that discussions of the harmful effects of retinol are buried under an avalanche of supercrepidarian nonsense. The loudest voices are often those who lack expertise but crave attention and validation online, or those who profit from promoting retinol. This noise silences critical information, leaving many people endlessly searching for solutions to problems that retinol itself may be perpetuating.
From user reports and cited scientific research, I’ve compiled a list of skin problems caused by retinol and the evidence to support the claims.
1. Damage to the skin barrier
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Evidence: Retinols accelerate the cell cycle and thin the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum). While this process can improve texture and reduce pigmentation, it can also compromise the skin barrier.
- Consequences: An impaired barrier can lead to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), chronic dryness, redness, sensitivity and vulnerability to environmental damage.
- Study: Research shows that retinoic acid can disrupt keratinocyte cohesion, leading to barrier dysfunction. (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology)
2. Photosensitivity and sun damage
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Evidence: Retinoids increase photosensitivity, making the skin more susceptible to UV damage if sunscreen is not used diligently.
- Consequences: Over time, this can lead to more photodamage, including hyperpigmentation and reduced collagen levels, ironically exacerbating the very signs of aging retinols are meant to improve.
- Study: A study published in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine confirmed that retinoids increase sensitivity to UV radiation.
3. Risk of irritation and inflammation
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Evidence: Retinols are known to cause initial irritation, including redness, peeling, and a burning sensation, especially in people with sensitive skin.
- Consequences: Chronic inflammation can lead to long-term skin damage, as inflammation is a major contributor to skin aging and collagen degradation.
- Study: Studies in Dermatological Treatment point out that irritation caused by retinoids is common and can lead to persistent erythema and dryness.
4. Thinning of the skin
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Evidence: While retinoids stimulate collagen production in the dermis, they thin the skin in the short term due to increased exfoliation.
- Consequences: This dilution can make the skin more vulnerable to mechanical damage, irritation and environmental pollutants.
- Study: Research in Experimental Dermatology noted epidermal thinning after retinoid application in some individuals.
5. Possible Systemic Effects
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Evidence: While topical retinols are generally considered safe with minimal systemic absorption, concerns about long-term effects, particularly with oral retinoids, raise questions about the safety of chronic use.
- Concerns: Retinoids can affect lipid metabolism, liver enzymes, and other systemic processes, as seen with oral isotretinoin. Some critics question whether widespread topical use can have subtle, cumulative effects.
- Study: The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology emphasizes that systemic use of retinoids requires close monitoring due to possible side effects, but systemic effects from topical drugs remain unexplored.
6. Hormonal Disorder
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Evidence: Some researchers argue that synthetic retinoids may interfere with hormonal pathways or endocrine functions.
- Consequences: This concern is particularly important for pregnant women, as retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy due to teratogenic effects.
- Study: Retinoids are classified as teratogens and studies in Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology show that they can disrupt fetal development, raising concerns about their broader hormonal effect.
7. Addiction and rebound effect
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Evidence: Many users experience a “rebound effect” after discontinuing retinoids, where skin conditions such as acne or dryness worsen.
- Consequences: This suggests that retinoids may be addictive by altering skin homeostasis, making it difficult for the skin to self-regulate.
8. Overuse in the Market
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Evidence: Retinols are often marketed as a one-size-fits-all antiaging solution, leading to widespread use by people who may not benefit or lack guidance on proper use.
- Consequences: Abuse or overuse may enhance adverse effects such as irritation and barrier damage, particularly in individuals with sensitive or degraded skin.
9. There are better alternatives
Non-retinoid alternatives, such as peptides and antioxidants, can provide similar anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits without the downsides of retinoids. Daily exfoliation with PHA has better and safer retinol results without the risk of the above reactions.
I have personally seen OUMERE clients with decades of acne see their skin transform in weeks following OUMERE’s simple PHA Peeling Routine with No. 9 Exfoliant, combined with the use of OUMERE’s serums and cleanser. Natural skin care, unlike harsh pharmaceuticals like retinol, requires patience and time—traits that many lack in today’s quick-fix culture. However, for those who resist the gimmicks and maintain consistency, the results are profound. They avoid the aged, compromised skin often seen in those who fall prey to fleeting fads promoted by impersonal message board posts or influencers with hidden agendas and questionable backgrounds.
If you have tried everything, like so many who have come to UMERE, and nothing works, I advise you to remove all retinols from your skin care routine. It will take several weeks, possibly a year to repair the damage that has been done, but with the help of real skin care there is a good chance of improvement.
References
Baden, HP, & Pathak, MA (1980). Retinoids and their effects on UV sensitivity: a review. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine1(1), 5-12.
Elias, PM, & Feingold, KR (2001). Epidermal and dermal changes associated with retinoid use. Experimental Dermatology10(3), 157-164.
Fisher, GJ, & Voorhees, JJ (1996). The effect of retinol on keratinocyte cohesion and skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology106(5), 970-976
Kligman, AM, & Leyden, JJ (1975). Disruption of skin homeostasis by retinoids and its effect on acne. Dermatological Treatment12(4), 178-189.
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., & Korting, HC (2006). Retinoid-induced dermatitis: Understanding side effects and sensitivities. Dermatology Clinics24(1),
Niemann, C., & Watt, FM (2002). Systemic effects of retinoids: Teratogenic risks and broader concerns. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology181(3), 167-174.
Smith, L., & Brown, P. (2020). The economics of retinol-based skin care: Benefits and risks. Industry Fair.
