I’ve been a big fan of retinol and prescription retinoids since they hit the anti-aging scene in the early 90s. However, back then, the lack of education and the availability of prescription-only retinoids meant that the side effects could be quite severe. There was limited understanding of how to use them properly to minimize these effects, which unfortunately discouraged many people from trying. Fast forward to today, and not only am I excited that retinol is now available over the counter, but I’m also incredibly excited about the new ways we’ve discovered to use it. Introduction: the retinol sandwich method.
Having worked with vitamin A and retinoids for a long time, it’s really exciting to see what we can do with them now. So, what is the reality behind this popular technique?
What is retinol?
Let’s start at the top: What are retinol and retinoids? Derived from vitamin A, these are powerful agents that can treat and reverse various signs of aging. These signs can include fine lines, wrinkles, post breakout marks, enlarged pores and brown spots. Either in prescription form (such as tretinoin) or over-the-counter options (such as Advanced Resurfacing Serum), retinoids have the potential to significantly improve the skin’s appearance, promoting a more youthful, radiant-looking skin over time.
However, those who have used retinol or retinoids in the past have likely experienced a clearing period, otherwise known as “the dreaded retinol.” This can be anything from an increase in rashes to dryness, peeling or irritation. Taking place almost instantly, this process occurs while the skin adapts to an increase in cell turnover. Because of this, prolonged breakouts that may have taken weeks (or even months) to appear will appear all at once. This means that before it gets better, your breakouts may actually get worse.
Not sure if this is right for your routine? Check out our beginner’s guide to using retinol and retinoids!
What is the sandwich method for retinol?
While it recently trended on TikTok, the retinol sandwich method is by no means a new concept in skin care. Moving away from the ever-popular “moisture sandwich” method, which promotes layering your products in order of viscosity, the concept of the retinol sandwich is to apply the retinol serum between two layers of moisturizer (ie the bread) in an effort to minimize its possible side effects. This is a great idea to try if you have sensitive skin, a breached barrier, or are new to the ingredient.
How do you make retinol sandwiches?
Testing this method is easy! Here is the technique I recommend:
- In the PM, clean the skin thoroughly
- Apply toner (or moisturizer) and serum for your skin type
- Apply a light, oil-free moisturizer to wet skin
- Let this dry completely
- Apply your retinol or retinoid
- Give your retinol time to absorb, then apply a second layer of the same moisturizer
This technique allows the first layer of moisturizer to act as a buffer between your skin and the hard-hitting active ingredient, while the second layer locks it all in. If you need extra buffer, I advise you to use a substance such as Moisture Injecting Toner, along with your toner and serum. Alcohol-free toners are great because the water acts as a carrier to carry ingredients deep into your skin, but in this case, that’s probably not what you’re looking for. By adding a serum-infused toner or substance, you provide a little extra buffer as opposed to a water-based toner.
Best practices
I always recommend using a light, non-greasy lotion on you Skin type. Heavy creams have a larger molecule and, when applied before retinol or a prescription retinoid, prevent the active ingredients from penetrating the skin. That’s why I recommend a lighter, oil-free lotion like Skin repair lotionwhich will provide a buffering layer of hydration without blocking the action of the vitamin A product. That’s the key—you don’t want to dilute it to the point where it doesn’t work, just take the edge off a bit to manage some of the side effects.
Does the retinol sandwich method work?
This method can alleviate irritation, dryness and flaking while providing youth-boosting benefits. If you have sensitive skin, want to focus on barrier protection, or are new to the ingredient, this is an effective option for limiting harsh side effects.
Does sandwiching retinol between moisturizer make it less effective?
In short, no. When you apply it, you put a certain percentage, say 0.1%, on your face. The percentage used doesn’t change regardless of what you apply before or after it, meaning you don’t make it any less effective. However, what can change is the product’s ability to penetrate the skin. Applying moisturizer first doesn’t necessarily dilute it, while mixing the two together would, but it minimizes the ability of the active ingredient to penetrate the skin.
Overall, using a moisturizer before applying retinol will not diminish its potency, it will just mitigate some of the negative side effects.
What are the benefits of the retinol sandwich method?
By eliminating the common side effects associated with retinol, skin will have increased smoothness, hydration and a brighter glow due to fewer dull, dead skin cells. By creating a buffer, the skin barrier is less likely to be compromised, resulting in less dehydration and sensitivity.
Additionally, the retinol sandwich is a great option for those with acne-prone skin. Since acne-prone skin is already active and dealing with inflammation, I generally advise against using a stimulating active ingredient as it can add even more inflammation. However, the sandwich method can make retinol more skin-friendly, allowing those with acne to still receive antiaging benefits
Should I add this to my routine?
If you’ve decided it’s time to start using retinol, then deciding whether you want to add the sandwich to your routine is pretty simple: is it causing you unwanted dryness, redness, or irritation? Then give it! Even if you just want to treat particularly dry areas like around the eyes, nose, and mouth, you can apply moisturizer to those exact areas before using retinol.
However, if you want to get the maximum results of retinol or retinoid and are okay with the typical side effects associated with this serum, you may want to opt out of the sandwich altogether.
The best products to use with the retinol sandwich method
If you want to try this ingredient but are worried about potential failures, you can start by sandwiching any retinol or retinoid (here’s the difference), but I recommend you watch out for one with these four things!
However, if you want to skip the additional steps required for sandwiching, I suggest using a retinol gentle enough to not require a sandwich or phase-in period, such as Advanced Resurfacing Serum. Not all retinols are created equal due to different contents and strengths, and this serum is designed for sensitive skin and those whose skin cannot tolerate prescription retinoids. From here you can progress to a more powerful option without the additional steps or products.
Experiencing retinol scares? Our new Rest Day Masque is a deeply hydrating and restorative treatment that will instantly correct dry skin, tightness and visible peeling often caused by active ingredients such as retinoids, peeling acids or benzoyl peroxide.
What are the cons of the retinol sandwich?
While the sandwich is a safe and effective way to reduce irritation, here are a few things to consider before trying it yourself.
- Slower results: Because the sandwich reduces the absorption of the product, it may take longer to see visible results compared to using retinol alone.
- Potential for irritation: While the sandwich can reduce the chance of irritation, some people may experience some, depending on the thickness of the moisturizer, the concentration of the ingredients, and the sensitivity of the skin.
- Product cost and usage: Using more product (two layers of moisturizer) each time you apply retinol can lead to your products running out faster and increased costs over time.
How often should I use this technique?
How often you use this method can be very similar to lifting weights. Some days, you might only want to lift 5 pounds, while other days you might choose 20 pounds if you know you’ll have some extra downtime afterward. I truly believe that the “no pain, no gain” philosophy can be applied to using retinol.
If you’re new to retinol, I’d suggest using this method 1-2 times a week, gradually increasing the frequency as your skin adjusts. However, I know that if I don’t have a special occasion or need to shoot soon, then I don’t mind peeling my skin a bit if it means I get more noticeable results. Also, oilier skin types may not need to sandwich as much as others, as their oil acts as their own built-in buffer method.
Remember, retinol makes skin more susceptible to sunburn, so make sure you only use it at night (and don’t forget sunscreen in the morning!).
Ultimately, the retinol sandwich method is a great technique to use if you want the anti-aging results without the downsides. Just understand that you may not see results as quickly if you don’t push your skin’s limits.
Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Specialist
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching skin, educating her audience and building an award-winning line of products. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has created a real solution — products designed to nine different skin types so your face will have exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare enthusiasts around the world, her vast real-world knowledge and constant research is why Marie Claire calls her “the most passionate skin professional we know.”
