As a 35 -year -old aesthetic and as a manufacturer of skin care products trained in cosmetic chemistry, what I know with certainty is that there are many false hopes sold for the latest and larger “miraculous” ingredients – and it is so easy to get into the marketing campaign.
I have seen many ingredients go and come back again (Hi hyaluronic acid!) But what is stable is vitamin C. Why? Because it works for afternoon ink, interrupting the overproduction of melanin that causes hyperballer. In addition, by working with faces, I have seen incredible improvements in my customers’ skin, giving their skin the brightness they want.
But … not all ingredients of vitamin C and what today is considered “gold standard” is tetrahexyldecyl ascorabate, also known as Thd Ascorbate.
Well, let’s make a deep dip in this ingredient, right?
What is Thd Ascorbate?
Thd, or tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, is an inactive form of vitamin C. What makes Thd Ascorbate so unique from other forms of Vitamin C is that it is an olive -soluble olive -soluble. When it is olive-soluble, it means that it will not begin to react and convert to L-Ascorbic acid until the oils hit your skin, making it more stable compared to other forms of Vitamin C. Plus, as it is dissolved by oil instead of water, It does not require a low pH like water -soluble versions.
Why choose the ascorbic THD against other types of vitamin C for my face?
Have you ever felt a sense of bites of vitamin C products with ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyloffs and pectin methylsillanol ascorbyl? Yes, this is an indication of their low pH along with the condition of your skin barrier. While tingling from low pH vitamin C is the same for the course, (read more about skin care products), this does not mean that your skin appreciates the daily attack “no pain, no profit” on which it is exposed to the Search for brighter skin. The pH of your skin is about 5.0 and many of the water -soluble acids can be 4.0 or lower, so the “oh factor” comes from there.
Just like exercise, if you want to achieve results for your body and your overall health and longevity, you need to create some discomfort. But for the skin, I like to leave them for retinol, prescription retinoids, home peeling, 7 -day skin challenge and professional therapies such as micro needling, dermaplaning, laser (such as the Moxi laser I had on my own skin) and chemical peeling.
If your goal is to create a smoother, uniform texture with less visible resources, there will be side effects that can endanger the skin barrier and cause irritation but putting your skin into an increased sensitivity mode every morning with use Vitamin C serum with low pH? No. I’m not absolutely a fan of that.
(If you feel your dam is destroyed, see how to fix it.)
How effective is THD Ascorbate to reduce brown spots and over -browning?
I was introduced to Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in 2004, while looking for better solutions for my clients fighting with over -tumulture from the sun, hormones and rashes. Initially, I sold a 2% Hydroquinone product to target the ink that is still known to be very effective, but during a cosmetic chemistry lesson in UCLA, I learned about the many promising Thd results in melanin production. Apart from not being annoying, what stood out was his stability – it was effective until the last drop, ensuring that you can make the most of their investment.
This sparked my trip with Thd, and within two years, I developed a serum vitamin c using this ingredient. The results during the tests were incredible and when I released it and suggested to customers, during weeks and months the sun spots, brown spots and signs from outbursts improved much faster. I gradually abolished hydroquinone serum to use the ascorbic Thd, which proved to me that it was much more effective for skin shine.
What percentage of ascorbic Thd is effective?
It is less about searching for the list of ingredients (known as the Inci list) and more for the type of product that uses it. Because Thd Ascorbate takes time to penetrate the skin, it is best to use it in products that leave the skin. I don’t recommend it on products that rinse the skin because there is simply no time for Thd to get a job. Also, THD requires much lower levels of use than ascorbic acid, thanks to its supreme ability to penetrate the skin. Often consumers like to see higher percentages of ingredients, but most are not always more! The skin does not need as much Thd as ascorbic acid to reap its benefits. For example, there is a study that shows the Thd’s collagen reinforcement results to just 0.1%. For skin shine, there are only 0.5%benefits.
Here’s how to read a component label.
Honestly, it’s less for the Inci list and more for the type of product that uses it. Because Thd Ascorbate takes time to penetrate the skin, it is best to use it in products that leave the skin. I don’t recommend it on products that rinse the skin because there is simply no time for Thd to get a job. Also, THD requires much lower levels of use than ascorbic acid, thanks to its supreme ability to penetrate the skin. I understand how consumers like to see higher percentages of ingredients, but let me tell you that the most is not always more. (Much of what social media is trying to tell you!) The skin does not need as much Thd as ascorbic acid to reap its benefits. For example, there is a study that shows the Thd’s collagen reinforcement results to just 0.1%. For skin shine, there are only 0.5%benefits.
Is there scientific research that proves how Thd can help improve discoloration?
Behind Science: The main manufacturer of THD has conducted hundreds of studies on the benefits of Thd, with which he managed to achieve the quasi -drug regime in Japan and Korea at 3% and 2%, respectively. Unfortunately, these studies are not available to the public, but there are studies evaluated by peer -to -skin benefits on the skin, both individually and in combination with other skin -like ingredients.
How often should I use vitamin C serum?
The benefits of using a vitamin C serum are when used daily as part of your morning routine. Not only does it help to suppress melanin production, but the use of all types of vitamin C helps to protect the skin cells from environmental damage. It cleans free radicals, which are unstable molecules that lead to skin lesions and accelerate the aging of the skin. The free radicals constantly come against us from so many different sources, including ultraviolet light from the sun, ozone, tobacco and pollution (to mention some). All of this is also responsible for a natural exhaustion of vitamin C in our skin over time, so filling with an oral antioxidant is so important.
Bonus: Vitamin C helps prevent collagen breakdown and promotes healthier collagen production. First, it helps to protect the collagen that you already have by inhibiting a group of collagen enzymes. Secondly, it helps in the healthier production of collagen, as it is a sympathy for two enzymes required to create and interconnect collagen.
When should I use vitamin C serum in my routine?
Always in the morning. Here’s how I like to use it: After cleaning and stimulating my skin, I’ll use two pumps Treatment with Vitamin C + E And gently press it on my skin with my fingers, letting it really stick to the skin for about a minute. This gives Powerhouse ingredients a moment to do their thing before I go to my next step.
After that, I end with my loved one who doesn’t clog the resources Protection without weight SPF 30locking everything in and protecting my skin from these annoying free radicals. It is a simple but extremely effective combination that lets my skin feel fresh, nutritious and ready to use the day!
Bottom Line for Thd Ascorbate: It is an ingredient that I appreciate very much because of research and unlike modern ingredients, this has a conservation power because it is one of those ingredients where you can see the difference that is not the case with many ingredients, even though they are still beneficial.
Since THD is the most stable form of vitamin C and is now considered “the golden model of vitamin C”, it does not need such a low pH to be effective, which is great news for our skin barrier. I hope you think of trying Treatment with Vitamin C + E As I have shaped it with pH 5.3, making it much softer with the skin than most.
From my hands to your face, your skin barrier will thank you!
Did you know that these five ingredients can help restore your skin barrier?
Celebrity aesthetic & skin care specialist
As aesthetic trained in cosmetic chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching the skin, training her audience and building an award -winning product range. Her practical experience as aesthetic and trusted specialist in skin care has created a real solution – products designed for nine different types of skin So your face will have exactly what it takes to show and feel better. She is trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers and amateurs around the world, her enormous knowledge in the real world, and her constant research is because Marie Claire calls her “the most passionate skin professional we know.”
