In your newsfeed. At your dermatologist’s office. During brunch with friends. It seems like everywhere you turn, someone is loving the latest skincare scoop: oil cleaners.
We share the science behind why they work, who should be using them, and how to work the cleansing oil into your current skincare routine. Plus, find out why it’s one of the his preferred makeup remover textures skin intellectuals everywhere.
What is cleansing oil and how does it work?
If you’re a loyal user of gel or foam cleansers, oil formulations may sound a little, fatty. That stretched feeling you get after a bubble bath makes you feel clean. But what does it mean for your skin?
Some cleaners that give you that clean feeling actually contain strong surfactants. So while they can be great at dissolving dirt and unwanted oils, They can also irritate the skin and throw its pH out of balance.
Meanwhile, counterintuitive as it may sound, Oil cleansing formulas are great at gently removing everyday grime and removing excess oil. But, how does it work? Oil attracts oil. And most impurities on the skin—like leftover makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum—are all of oily origin. Cleansing oil binds to these unwanted guests to help eliminate and dissolve them.
What’s so great about oil cleansers?
We already know that good oils stick to unwanted oils, but what else? Cleansing oils can do some serious heavy lifting, especially in dual oil-in-emulsion formulations. An emulsifier can be used to mix the immiscible ie water, dirt and oil. So when you add water, you create a milky texture that clumps impurities and allows easy rinsing.
The bonus? Nourishing oils sink into the skin, providing antioxidant benefits. The end result is soft, clean, glowing skin — without the potential tightness (and damage) left behind with harsher cleaners.
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Sounds good! But I am a fan of micellar water. Is cleansing oil better?
Not better – just different. Both cleansing oils and micellar waters can be great soap-free options that are friendly to all skin types. Here are some general tips that can help you decide on one, the other, or both.
Oil cleansers are ideal if:
- You’re looking for an effective cleanser that helps leave your skin hydrated.
- Apply makeup regularly (especially waterproof formulas).
- You live in the city. Oil formulations can remove any pollution particles on your skin after a long day.
- You have oily, normal, sensitive, dry or combination skin.
Micellar waters are great if:
- You’re looking for an effective cleaner that gets the job done quickly.
- Are you skinimalist: look for an all-in-one micellar formula that removes makeup, cleanses, tones and hydrates in a single step.
- You have sensitive skin. Look for a soap-free, alcohol-free, and fragrance-free formula to avoid irritation.
Not sure which cleanser is right for you? Take the personalized ISDIN skincare routine quiz.
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I have oily skin… Should I use an oil based cleanser?
Yes! No, really, hear us out. The best thing about this cleansing texture is that it is suitable for all skin types.
So even if you have oily skin, oil cleansers can work their magic thanks to skincare science. The lipophilic character (oil-loves-oil) melts excess sebum without leaving any residue behind or over-drying the skin.
And what makes balanced hydration so important for oily skin? It helps keep your skin’s barrier function happy and balanced. Meanwhile, using harsh, drying cleaners that contain soap can damage your barrier. A study on acne-prone skin found that a weakened skin barrier function can actually make acne worse. This does it gentle but powerful cleansing oil properties also ideal for blemish-prone skin.
What ingredients should I look for in a cleansing oil?
There are many different types of cleansing oils out there. So when you’re ready to take the plunge, make sure you’re cleaning with the best of them. Look for cleansing oil formulas that are enriched with antioxidants and contain naturally derived ingredients.
Here are some essentials to help achieve an effortless clean:
Mediterranean extra virgin olive oil
Bathes the skin with protective and regenerative properties, offers antioxidant benefits. This antioxidant power can fight the effects of daily skin stressors.
Sunflower oil
Helps to restore and strengthen the functions of the skin barrier, thanks to omega 6 and 9.
Sage extract
Bonus points if your cleanser advertises this skin booster to complement its oil formula. This naturally derived ingredient helps evens skin tone and enhances radiance.
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Can you use cleansing oil every day?
Yes! Use the cleansing oil day and night as the first step in your skin care routine. Night time is essential as the texture of the oil can be particularly effective at removing waterproof make-up and sunscreen.
How to use the Cleansing Oil in your skincare routine:
Starting with any new skin care product it has a slight learning curve. And while oil cleansers are generally beginner-friendly, some steps can be a little different than the micellar water or foaming facial cleansers you’re used to.
Here is the step by step guide:
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STEP 1: Apply
The biggest difference between gel and oil cleansers? Skip the water to start.
Apply a few pumps of the product on top dry hands and spread the oil on yours dry face using circular motions.
STEP 2: Extension
You can skip this step if you’ve given up eye makeup for the day. But if you like the smoky eye, follow our example! Keeping the eyes closed, use your fingers and gently rub from top to bottom over the eyelids and eyelashes — lifting and loosening stubborn eye makeup.
STEP 3: Add water and massage
Wet the skin with lukewarm water. If you use an oil-in-milk formula like Isdinceutics Essential Cleansing, massage the oil into a soothing emulsion.
STEP 4: Rinse and uncover
Rinse with lukewarm water and lightly pat skin dry with a soft towel to reveal clear, radiant skin. No makeup residue, no residue!
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Ready to take the first step in your skincare routine? Enjoy the cleansing essential oil, our powerful oil-in-milk formula, and gently melt away impurities to reveal radiant skin.
Bibliographical references:
Yamamoto A, Takenouchi K, Ito M. Impaired water barrier function in acne vulgaris. Arch Dermatol Res. 1995;287(2):214-8. doi: 10.1007/BF01262335. PMID: 7763094. Thiboutot, D., & Del Rosso, J. Q. (2013, February). Acne vulgaris and the epidermal barrier. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology. Retrieved April 1, 2022, from